Burke & Wills Buying Guide: Choosing the Right Oilskin Jacket, Coat, Vest or Shirt

Burke & Wills has been making outdoor clothing for Australian conditions for decades, and while the classic full-length oilskin coat is probably what most people picture first, there's now a much wider range to choose from. Lightweight jackets, warm lined styles, traditional long coats, vests and work shirts all have their place — but they're designed for slightly different jobs.

If you're trying to work out which Burke & Wills jacket or coat is right for you, the biggest things to consider are how much weather protection you need, how warm you want it to be, and whether you're looking for something to work in or simply wear day to day. In this guide, we'll run through the main styles and explain where each one makes the most sense.

Heavyweight vs Lightweight Oilskin

One of the first things to look at is the weight of the oilskin itself. Burke & Wills uses heavier 12oz oilskin on some of its more traditional, hard-wearing styles, while lighter 9oz oilskin is used where a bit more flexibility and everyday comfort makes sense. The heavier material is better suited to rougher outdoor use and prolonged exposure to wind and rain, while the lighter options are easier to move around in and generally feel less bulky if you're wearing them around town, travelling or doing lighter work outdoors.

Long Oilskin Coats

If maximum coverage is the priority, the traditional long coat is still hard to beat. The Burke & Wills Balranald Long Coat is the full-length option, using 12oz oilskin with a detachable shoulder cape, detachable hood and plenty of room for movement, making it well suited to wet weather, property work and spending long periods outside. If you want the same heavyweight protection and features in a shorter cut, the Balranald Short Coat uses the same 12oz oilskin and detachable cape and hood, just finishing around hip length rather than full-length — a good option if you find a full-length coat gets in the way.

Shorter Oilskin Jackets

For everyday use, a shorter oilskin jacket is often the more practical option. Styles such as the Kings and Swan Hill give you the weather resistance and traditional look of oilskin without the extra length of a stockman coat, so they're easier to wear in the car, around the property or as a general winter jacket. Some styles also add warmer linings and a more casual cut, so this part of the range is worth looking at if warmth and day-to-day comfort matter more than maximum coverage.

Oilskin Vests

A vest makes sense when you want warmth and weather protection through your core without the bulk or restricted movement of a full jacket. Burke & Wills offers lighter 9oz styles such as the Kings Vest, as well as heavier 12oz options including the Stockman, Derwent and Byron, so there's still a choice between something more casual and flexible or something built for colder, rougher conditions. For property work, camping, driving or layering over a work shirt, a good oilskin vest can be one of the most versatile pieces in the range.

Flinders vs Capricorn Work Shirts

If you're after something for work rather than wet-weather protection, the main choice is between the Flinders and Capricorn shirts. The Flinders is made from heavier 185gsm cotton drill, giving it a tougher, more substantial feel that suits cooler weather and harder day-to-day use. The Capricorn uses lighter 125gsm cotton poplin, making it a better option for warmer conditions or anyone who wants a cooler, less bulky work shirt.

Both use a relaxed fit, half-button front, double chest pockets and a longer tail at the back, so there isn't a huge difference in how they're designed to be worn. Put simply, go for the Flinders if durability and a heavier fabric are the priority, or the Capricorn if breathability and lighter weight matter more.

Getting the Sizing Right

Burke & Wills clothing is designed with practical outdoor use in mind, so it's worth checking the individual size chart rather than simply ordering your usual size. The measurements shown on our Burke & Wills product pages are generally measurements of the garment itself, rather than your body, so you'll usually want some extra room between your body measurement and the listed garment measurement.

As a general guide, allow around 15–20cm above your body measurement, particularly if you plan on wearing jumpers or other layers underneath. With coats and jackets especially, it's worth thinking about how you'll actually wear the garment — something that fits perfectly over a T-shirt may become a bit snug once winter layers are added.

Looking After Your Oilskin

Oilskin is tough, but it does need to be looked after a little differently from an ordinary jacket. After wearing it in wet conditions, let it dry naturally somewhere with good ventilation before storing it away. Dirt can generally be brushed off or sponged down with cold water rather than putting the garment through a normal wash cycle.

Avoid machine washing, hot water, tumble drying and standard household detergents, as these can strip away the oils and waxes that give the fabric its weather-resistant properties. Over time, you may also notice dry areas developing around high-wear spots such as the shoulders, sleeves and seams. These can be treated with an oilskin reproofing wax to restore the finish and help extend the life of the garment. For the full step-by-step, see our guide on how to care for your oilskin.

More Than Just Coats and Shirts

Burke & Wills has also grown into a much broader outdoor range. Alongside the clothing, there are traditional canvas swags, swag mattresses and heavy-duty swag bags for camping, as well as oilskin hats, cold-weather hats and other accessories.

For more specialised outdoor work, there are also 12oz oilskin chaps designed to be worn over your regular pants, along with smaller items such as oilskin dog coats and care products. So if you already like the look and feel of Burke & Wills clothing, there's a fair bit more to the range than just jackets and coats.

The easiest way to choose Burke & Wills gear is to start with how you'll actually use it. Heavyweight oilskin makes sense when protection and durability come first, while the lighter styles are generally easier to wear day to day. From there, it's simply a matter of deciding how much coverage, warmth and freedom of movement you need.

Whichever way you go, taking a minute to compare the fabric weight, lining and sizing before you buy will make it much easier to find the Burke & Wills piece that suits you.